Over 8,400 kms and we're finished!!! All 10 provinces of Canada visited, along with 6 US States, and 6 times zones. The final destination was Cape Spear, St John's, Newfoundland, the most easterly point in North America. We simply couldn't go any further.

Today was a day of mixed emotions and what we have achieved certainly hasn't sunk in yet. After being very excited the night before about finishing, when we reached the "Welcome to St John's" sign we both stopped, took photos, smiled, but then hesitated in crossing the line. Did we really want this to end? Thankfully it wasn't quite over yet as we still needed to get out to Cape Spear. On the journey out there we quickly wished it would end. The wind was horrendous and literally blew me the entire way across the road and into the opposite gutter. That along with the hills really gave us the incentive to get this finshed. Once at Cape Spear the champagne was popped in celebration and we sat there quitely enjoying the moment before calling loved ones to share it with. Being a major tourist site it was packed with tourists who were utterly impressed by what we had done. Their initial judgements that we were Sunday cyclists with drinking problems were quickly dispelled and they stayed around to listen to our stories.

I had thought that when I got here I would be in tears from the emotion of finishing, both from the joy of what we have achieved and the sadness that it was over, but instead I felt at peace. I was calm, relaxed, and proud. I love my sport and have always tried my best throughout my life in any that I have attempted but I'm not a talented athlete, never will be, and have never really achieved anything special in that arena. But despite always knowing I could complete this trip, today I was at peace that I had finally achieved something significant that I could be proud of. So homeward bound and investigation begins into the next challenge. I'm pretty sure it won't be anything this long. Canada is a big country, hey?

The sayings "It's not over till the fat lady sings" and "Don't count your chickens before they hatch" rang true today. We thought we'd have an easy cruise today, relaxing before we rolled in to town at S John's. Instead we had a tough, tough day in the saddle. The sun was shining but the wind was against us and so was gravity. The hills were huge and made us work for every mile. It took the shine off what we thought would be an enjoyable day. The plus side is that we've finished with a tough day which does help discourage us from doing something like this again any time soon. Ben has the added incentive to avoid such a trip. His calf has now given up in much the same way as mine did. The last session today really hurt him but thankfully the final 8kms in to town was downhill.

So for our last night before completion we are in Hollyrood, in a 2 bed apartment we have snapped up for a bargain and, perhaps a little premature, we're enjoying a few celebratory drinks tonight. I'm very excited about finishing tomorrow and the feeling of achievement when we dip our bikes in the ocean.

I was laughing out loud to myself today as we road through Tera Nova National Park. Earlier that morning we were talking to a gentleman who said he had driven this road over a thousand times and never really noticed it to be too hilly. Yet here we were riding hills that rivalled the Rockies. I'm unsure whether it was the endless mountains of food we ate for breakfast or the scenery, but the 90 miles today were a breeze! We were expecting it to be our last tough day but as we finished early at 3:30pm we questioned whether the terrain was getting easier or whether we are now just machines.

In the last week Ben has been quite lucky and seen plenty of wildlife, including moose. I, on the other hand, have not seen any. Today I'm sure the moose were taunting me. Throughout the day I could hear lots of movement in the bushes beside the road when I rode past, obviously scaring them. But alas, I still saw nothing. I've taken to day dreaming about bears but had to stop myself when it got to the point that I was imagining turning around to see one chasing Ben up the road. It's just not nice to day dream about your friends being hunted down by bears.

The riding today was veyr easy. Finished again by 3pm so we could update the website and do some much needed laundry. It appears as though the rain we were expecting today came yesterday afternoon and we had good conditions all day. These are set to continue for Friday and Saturday before we get more rain on our last day. I don't think it will matter what the weather is on Sunday, we will be all smiles no matter what!

The days are slowly running out and the way to St John's seems ot be getting easier and will allow for a relaxed finish. Rather than 130km today we pushed out 181 on the back of the easiest 100km morning session we've ever had. 100kms were completed in 3.5 hours and there was no point wasting that start and stopping short. So tonight we are in Badger. The extra distance should mean an easy 3 days riding followed by a half day to completion. We're both getting excited that we are not far from accomplishing our goal and finishing this epic journey!

It would appear that we are the only people in Newfoundland stupid enough to camp in the cold at this time of year. all provincial campgrounds are closed for the season and having experienced the cold and the damp last night and this morning, I'm beginning to agree with their assessment. Our joke a few days ago about sending the camping gear home to lighten the load and staying motels the rest of the way isn't looking like too bad an idea now. I slept the entire night completely swallowed by my sleeping bag as well as wearing a beanie. It was too cold for me to even have my mouth exposed for breathing. And when I woke this morning it was colder with the added discomfort of everything being soaked through.

Once on the road we started to warm up pretty quickly so the layers of clothing were removed. It turned in to a gorgeous day. Newfoundland is certainly stunning and they were right about there being big distances between any signs of population. The hills this morning were almost mountainous like BC except that rather than climbing all day, it was very up and down. As it flattened out in the afternoon, we enjoyed lovely views of Deer Lake as we cruised in to town at 4pm. It was a perfect riding day. We also found the only bike shop on route in Corner Brook where Ben put his mind to rest by buying new tires to replace his completely bald ones.

Tomorrow should be another great ride, we've been told it will be quite scenic and slightly flatter. We're very much enjoying ourselves and loving meeting the locals. Everything we've heard about Newfies being the friendliest people on the plannet is true. They are the nicest strangers you'll ever meet.

When we can stop cycling, stand still, and hear nothing it is very peaceful yet it reminds us we are in the middle of nowhere; I suppose it has it's pros and cons. We are surrounded by beautiful scenery and we have it all to ourselves but it does prove difficult in organising meals and leaves little choice accomodation-wise. After a 100 miles ride, what you feel like most is a good meal and a hot shower. Unfortunately tonight Ben had to salvage what he could from the canned goods available and the only campsite in the area is shut. So tonight we're in bed without washing, not ideal at all. To make matters worse, it is bitterly cold, something I'm expecting from here on in. No doubt Ben will hear me complain about it.

During the day was a different story. Clear blue skies, crisp fresh air, and a gentle breeze. It was the perfect temperature for riding such distances.

About 6 days maximum left of camping. Hopefully we'll prove more successful in the coming days at finding somewhere to sleep. I'm also hoping the riding conditions and scenery continues. It is truely a beautiful place.

Let's just say rough seas and my delicate stomach don't got hand in hand. My theory of sitting near the stern and in the middle of the boat to reduce movement from swells didn't seem to work. Rather than take the ferry I decided to drive the porcelain bus for most of the journey before deciding the freezing cold out on deck was the place for me. Despite being so cold that my teeth were chattering it was much more comfortable than below deck.

The plus side. I was treated to fantastic views of Newfoundland as the sun was setting over the ocean. It looks beautiful and very baron and quite hilly. Given teh retreating sun and my poor condition we weren't going to make it to the campground by sun down so we're in a 3.5 star hotel. I'm sure the star grading system here must be out of 10. Microwaved food is not good at the best of times. Nor is cheesecake that is still frozen and should really have been microwaved.

Despite the chaos, first impressions of Newfoundland are that the landscape looks stunning and should be a good week, and the people are extra friendly, even if they sound like they are from the English West Country. Ben feels at home.

A breeze to the ferry I thought. Sadly I was wrong. We were confronted with Mount Smokey very early in the day, the first time I have seen a ski lift at sea level. We were aiming to finish early today as horrible weather was forecast on the back of the latest hurricane to hit the US. If the climbs continued we would be pressed for time. Flat tires wouldn't help either so I was thrilled when I got one. Then came a short ferry crossing, followed by Mount Kelly. The black clouds were moving in overhead and were a lot more threatening than the ones we were above when climbing Mount Smokey. We finally made it to the ferry at the respectable time of 3pm, plenty of time to book the ferry for tomorrow morning, get a motel, and have a few beers to celebrate making it to the east coast. Only Newfoundland stands in our way. Bring it!

This morning we were excited, Cabot Trail here we come. Once again people had little confidence we would make it as far as we planned in a day due to their being two "mountains" to climb. Once again we smiled and loved the fact that we knew we could do it without too much trouble. A large breakfast and we were on our way under beautiful blue skies for what should be a fantastic yet challenging day. It didn't disapoint. No sooner had we set off than the climbs began and the beautiful sea cliffs and beaches were in view. Many stops were taken for photos.

French Mountain was first but despite being the biggest climb in a long time we found it reasonably straight forward. It was perhaps the scenery and moose that distracted us slightly or the confusion when we reached the "summit" sign only to turn a corner and continue climbing, the French hey!

North Mountain was next and a different prospect. A lot steeper and it did hurt a bit but it could have been worse as Ben lost balance and nearly fell off his bike taking me with him. The sharp metal barrier would have broken his fall from falling off the cliff though. With the climb out of the way we knew we could just relax, sit back, and enjoy the scenery. Unfortunately, we got our info wrong and we were faced with a few more climbs. On one such climb I turned around to see Ben waving to me from halfway down the hill. I waved back and carried on. Soon after a guy in a van pulled up and informed me that Ben had pulled off the road and may be in a little trouble. Turns out he wasn't waving, he ruptured his hamstring and wanted me to stop.

On to North Sydney tomorrow where we will get the ferry to Newfoundland for the final chapter.

Our vision of whale watching today was crushed by the gale force winds that prevented all the operators from going out. Ben was gutted. We walked outside and Ben proclaimed "It's not that windy". As soon as he finished the sentence the bin next to us blew over, followed by us nearly being blown off our feet. So we did what we could. We updated the website, ordered a pizza, got some vodka and gin, and sat in front of the TV all evening. Exciting stuff!

Perhaps our most enjoyable ride yet. Beautiful blues skies, a huge tail wind, great road conditions, and a spectacular and scenic ride along the ocean front. It`s already clear at this early stage why the Cabot Trail is known as one of the best riding roads around. The other reason for enjoyment today was that we were in no hurry at all. With only 50 miles to do today before a day off on the back of a 10 day stint, we were in wind down mode. We weren`t on the road till after 11am and we finished by 4pm. A day off tomorrow for a spot of whale watching and some much need rest before we tackle the rest of the Cabot Trail that should be some of the most spectacular riding of our life. Looking forward to it!

We entered Nova Scotia today under sunny skies but, as we`ve now come acustomed to, with a cool air. With our welcome to our second last province came a gentle wakeup call, the hills are coming again. We faced some monster hills today and they were very enjoyable. However the hills didn`t just begin in Nova Scotia. The "short cut" I took us on this morning on PEI was definately shorter but there wasn`t a single metre of flat road along it. Ben`s look of "good work mate" made me chuckle and again we both strangely enjoyed riding some hills again.

Now as navigator I`ve had to learn from an early stage that my role also includes doing my bit for the team in acting as bait for any upcoming dogs. I`ve been fine with it until now even after 20+ dog chases. Today I`ve had enough though. Once again a huge dog came hurtling out of his drive in my direction. Seeing there as his road and then a huge gulley and divide between he and I, I was not bothered. He quickly helped me leave my comfort zone when he lept into the gulley and began charging on up towards me. As always I put my legs in to gear and tore off as fast as I could. Then he did what all dogs have done which frustrates me. He pulled up, turned around, and then casually walked past Ben on his way home. I swear they must smile and wink at him on the way through.

When I say hamburger, what do you imagine? Is it two pieces of sliced bread with a processed meat paddy between them, slapped on a plate and then drowned in gravy? Me neither. Ben`s fish on the other hand looked quite good as he snapped it in two like wood. Ah the delights of Ferry Port quisine. Tonight we met an Australian guy who is cycling across country with his girlfriend. On their journey they have encountered 30 bears, had their food eaten, and there bags torn apart by them. Share some around, we`ve seen none!

Prince Edward Island was the only Canadian Province left off our orginal plan, but today we set about rectifying that. We`d kick ourselves if we missed just one of them. Thankfully it was not far out of the way, in fact it may cut some distance off. We would also get the pleasure of marvelling at the Confederation Bridge, all 13km of it across the ocean. The weather had cooled off again as promised, helped greatly by the huge uncompromising wind from the north, off the ice caps I presume, and it made the 30 miles to the bridge a small battle. The flowers and shrubbery are used to it of course and the coastline does resemble that of Ireland or the UK.

As we approached the bridge we could only marvel at its shear length and also drop our heads when we saw the "no bikes" sign. They were soon raised again when there was a sign for a shuttle bus which eliminated the need for us to hitch hike. Once on the other side with another province under the belt, we stopped for a quick snack at a gas station. When consuming our sugar purchase, a gentleman walked up to where we sat, looked at the bikes, and proclaimed "Trailers,what a brilliant idea". Thinking that when someone talks to you they want to engage in conversation, I replied "They are, until you have to drag them up a hill". Rather than continue the delightful conversation the man turned towards the shop door and walked away without another word. He may have been unimpressed by my accent or response but I`m sure he walked away pondering how he could make millions revolutionising the transport industry. Trailers, a brilliant idea!

This morning we struck up conversation again with the only other people in the campsite, Roy and Ireen. They were a lovely couple and have done their share of travelling the last year. They must know hungry campers when they see them and cooked us up pancakes, bacon, a pot of coffee, and a hot chocolate for me. We felt very relaxed and comfortable sitting and chatting with them and could have stayed there all day but we had some miles to cover.

When on the road, the carnage soon began. Teh road surfaces on the back roads were terrible and the bumps left us with sore hands with pins and needles. We weren`t the only ones suffering in those forgotten streets. We soon came across what can only be described as a massacre, road kill style. It was indeterminable exactly what each of the animals were or how many of each were present, it was just a huge mess.

The other attribute of today that was high in number were the amount of large open rivers we crossed as we followed the eastern coast of New Brunswick. The towns here are quite strange. There is still a very strong French influence but the French that is spoken makes Ben sound like a genuine Frenchman. The French accent here is a combination of a Canadian, a Frenchman, and perhaps the dialect of a forgotten Etheopian Tribesman lost in time. My French isn`t great at the best of times but the way they speak it I had no chance. Unlike breakfast, dinner was a little mixed. Being by the coast and in a fishing town, I convinced Ben that we should go for a seafood dinner. I had two beautiful samon steaks but Ben`s first experience with Lobster left him less than impressed. He stated "in the last two days we have spent $100 on two of the worst dinners I have ever eaten". I agreed that he should get off his butt and start doing his duty by cooking again.

Tonight we are being sung gently to sleep by the drunks that surround our tent and being eased off into slumber by the gentle thumping of fireworks that are being lit about 20 metres from our tents. Good campsite choice Ben....

After yesterdays purchase of warmer clothing to tackle the cold, today it was 32 degrees, go figure. I`m sure they will come in handy before the end of the trip but they definately won`t be used on days like today. We were planning catch up today and decided fewer but longer sessions were the way forward. Despite feeling ill for the entire day, having to dodge chipmonks and snakes on the road, and riding up some very decent hills, it was a very enjoyable 108 miles and we`re now ahead of ourselves once more. The hills are definately back and it does feel like BC again. Although they are though going it is preparing us for things to come and it does make for more interesting riding and help pass the time.

Once again the Canadians are more than hospitable, this time it was Donald the campground owner. Having cycled 10km out of Miramichi to the campground, we discovered there was nowhere to buy food. Donald kindly gave us time to shower and set up camp before driving us back into town, ordered Chinese takeout, and then drove us back again. Once again we got a few stares when the "Dinner for 4" was ordered plus another meal when it was clearly for only the two of us.

Mother Nature was showing off again today and, as Ben pointed out, it was like being back in British Columbia. We were treated to rolling hills through tree filled valleys that followed beaultiful fast flowing clear rivers. There were may people fly fishing and in combination with the cool weather I thought I could definately see dad loving it here. Fall is also nearly upon us and today was the first sign of it. A few random trees were coloured in stunning reds, oranges, and yellows, but there were few and far between.

Not wanting to be too generous, Mother Nature also flexed her muscles. I`m sure she is stronger but she put on a good show with a bone splitting icey strong headwind and later in the day threw in some rain for good measure. We did what we could to negate the conditions and dropped in to a bike shop and sports store to buy some warmer clothing. We each purchased full length cycling trousers which, despite looking like performers in the ballet, are very comfortable and warm. On to New Brunswick then, where the roads improved dramatically and everything was in English again! Rather than risking getting cold and ill camping in the rain, we`re in a motel again tonight where we`ve caught up on some washing. The next few days requires some miles to be covered quickly but the deserted towns, closed campgrounds, abandoned icecream stands, ice cold wind, and rain gives me the impression that we`re in the wrong season to be riding around this region.

I learnt my lesson from yesterday and made sure I had long fingered gloves on as apposed to the fingerless variety I`ve worn until now. Also in tow were my headscarf and three layers of clothing, I was not going to be cold today, or so I thought. Despite the beautiful blue skies, the beaming sun and one of our prettiest rides along the St Lawerence, I was in pain once again from the cold. My fingers and feet were numb, a feeling that only worsened thoughout the day. Thankfully the beautiful ride up the coast took my mind off things and it was very enjoyable.

We soon said our farewells to the St Lawerence and heading inland where we were met with our first hills for a long time. They were slightly unexpected although perhaps as navigator I should have interpretted the icons of skiers on the map as meaning there would be a few hills. It was tough to get back into after a good month of easy riding but I soon had a smile on my face, it was the first decent workout we`ve had for a long time. It has been too easy for too long.

My smiles didn`t last long though, with the sun dipping along with the temperature. I was bitterly cold and I was burning from it. I was trying to think of ways I could convince Ben that we could afford motels for the rest of the trip just so I could avoid the cold of camping. It`s also the first time I really wished that the trip was over, I hated it that much. Someone must have been listening. As we pulled in to town after 100 miles, the campground was closed for the season meaning we HAD to get a motel. We met a couple of cyclists today that had just been to Newfoundland. They said it was much much colder than here, hilly like the Rockies, and 100 kms in between water stops. I`ve got to go shopping for warmer clothes, however even with them the next two weeks look to be more of a challenge than previously anticipated.

Sunny skies greeted Ben on his 27th Birthday, along with a blustery icey wind that cut through us like knives; is it winter already?

Having missed English Breakfasts for the last couple of months, this morning Ben put together one to mark the occasion of his birthday. I would have enjoyed it more if it wasn`t for the pain I was feeling from being burnt from the cold morning. Aside from a few wet days so far, we have been blessed with great weather, however I fear the cold we will experience in the next few weeks is going to hurt like the inverse of hell.

Our goal for today was 100 miles which would be a good way to mark Ben`s birthday. Unfortunately our plan was not executed. 5km into the ride we hit a gravel road. Not being one for gravel and being highly experienced in coming off my bike in such terrain, I stopped at a point of losing balance, regained my composure, but then dropped my bike. Little did I know but my bike was getting sick of being dropped and did the only thing it could, bend the frame. It wasn`t until we were a few kms down the road before I changed gear and my derailer started hitting my spokes, something was wrong. Now being stuck in the middle of nowhere with a damaged bike and freezing cold would be tough enough but then consider that we`re in a purely French speaking region and I don`t know a work of French. Thankfully Ben could put two and two together when asking a few local cyclists where a bike shop was. They and a local farmer were able to point us in the direction of a shop of sorts that fixed bikes. When examining the bikes they said "If we bend it back it could snap". Before I knew it and without me responding, they took to bending my frame, there was no time to object. It soon was in a shape closely resemmbling its original before we could set off again.

With the 100 now out of sight, we simply set about covering as much distance as possible. This was not aided by the strongest headwind I have ever attempted riding into and some of the worst roads I`ve ever riden on. Our ears rang as the wind blastered by and straight through us. The conditions remind me a little of the Praires; small shrubs and long grasses, hardly enough to stop any wind.

Tonight we`ve enjoyed a fantastic dinner for Ben`s birthday. Sadly I`m pretty confident that our water intake was minimal today and our wine intake actually exceeded it. I hope he enjoyed his dinner and sparkler on his cake for his birthday away from home. I`m not looking forward to the cold in the morning and will no doubt make my feelings known to Ben at 6:30am

Having made ourselves at home in the campground we were very unpacked and disorganised this morning. The overnight rain and cold temperatures did nothing to help me get out of bed and on the road. Ben has said that one thing he will definately not miss after the trip is trying to get me out of bed in the morning. However after a lengthy packing session and a bacon sarnie, we were on our way. The overnight clouds began to clear, the sun beated down, and a HUGE tail wind was at our backs.

We cruised along all day with little effort, hardly breaking a sweat. It was easy and pleasant as we followed the St Lawerence which is getting wider and ready to enter the ocean. It was so easy we considered taking advantage of the tail wind and trying to bridge the gap between campsites; 200km instead of 143km. However, given that we are on day 1 of a 10 day run before a break, we thought it best to go easy on our bodies, pull up in Riviere Ouelle, and hope for the same wind tomorrow.

Tomorrow is Ben`s birthday so tonight we had a couple of drinks at 7pm which would be midnight in the UK and the start of his birthday. We were also given a couple of beers by a local who was amazed how far we had come. We are getting bigger and better expressions of shock from people when told how far we`ve come. A little ways to go yet and some beaultiful country left to see, if Ben isn`t feeling too old and decrepete to join me for the rest of it.

TODO

TODO

Today had to be a big one. My intial estimate was about 110 miles to Quebec but it soon became evident that it was going to be a little further and a little tougher as we delt with roads with no shoulder and drivers that simply did not care we were there. A few times we were both forced off the road and into the gravel. Thankfully it was not long before we once again we stumbled on some fantastic cycling networks and we were able to stay off the main roads and hammer out some miles whilst following the St Lawrence River. The St Lawrence would never be described as a pretty river but it is certainly functional. It is a huge passage for major cargo ships that make it look like the equivalent of a major highway.

So the bicycle tracks or lanes we found were fantastic but as we got closer to Quebec City their definition somewhat relaxed. I sure each town gets government grants for developing cycling networks, simply spent a few dollars of the budget on one sign and left the gravel, bumpy shoulder as it was. Great work guys!

We eventually made it to the outskirts of Quebec City as darkness set in and my knee gave way again. We are in a campsite and think we will stay on the outskirts and just travel in to town for a look around as we are on the side of the river we need to be for continuing on and we do not want any repeats of the misdirections we encountered in Montreal.

After saying our goodbyes to our wonderful hosts and picking our bikes up, we set off in the rain. It was cold, wet, windy, and miserable. I was very unsure where we were going and for the first time I was not happy being the navigator. However we soon stumbled on an extensive network of bike tracks that took us around the city. Unfortunately the tracks kept ending without notice with no sign of where they started again. As a result we ended up on a freeway (illegally), I got a flat tire there, and then we got lost. After some helpful directions we were back on the bike track, which once again ended, forcing us to carry our bikes and trailers up a few flights of stairs and over the freeway. Finally we got back on another track and off we went. I am definately not a fan of cycling in cities and my frustration was evident. As a result of our misdirections we did not make it to Trois Rivieres today and have pulled up in Sorel. Weèll be oushing for a big one tomorrow to Quebec City and catch up our lost time. I am really looking forward to getting out in the middle of nowhere again after Quebec.

After another great meal prepared by Shirley we headed down to the bike shop to get the bikes serviced for perhaps the last time. Once they were checked in we jumped on a bus into Montreal and walked mile after mile of the streets. It was quite a vibrant city with the highlight being the old town. It was like being transported to Europe with itès cobbled streets and large courtyards and of course Cathedrals. It is a lovely place and the people are very friendly. Unlike when in France, people will actually speak to you in English once you have given French a go and they hear that you are challenged in that area.

For some reason today Ben and I got into a conversation as to what our reaction would be if the giant Marshmellow mand came over the hill in ture Ghostbusters style. Rather than simply move on from the question, we actually had an in depth conversation regarding the different strategies available given his lack of nimbleness but it was agreed that what type of marshmellow he was made from would affect which strategy was chosen. Can you tell we are on holiday and need to apply our mind to something...

Today began very casually as we again did not have far to go. Apart from Ben deciding to change his chain which kept coming off thereafter, we had no problems as we easily strolled into Quebec Province.

Tonight we are staying with Eugene and Shirley. Eugene is the grandfather of my sisterès flatmate in Spain last year (another long link), and without a doubt, the man should write a book. The stories he has to tell are simply fantastic and his travels and sporting achievements are endless. At the tender age of 93 his wit is as sharp as they come and competing in World Swimming Championships shows his body is not in too bad a shape either. Shirley prepared a fantastic meal for us and has made us feel at home. We are both quite tired this evening despite an easy day so we will rest up now before heading in to Montreal tomorrow for a look around.

Ottawa is by far the nicest Canadian city we have had the pleasure of visiting so far. The large open spaces, parklands, low rise buildings, markets and cute bars make Ottawa feel very relaxing and somewhat European. I think Ben and I were pleasantly surprised by the beauty of the Capital.

As for our hosts Patrick, Karin, Rowan, and the energiser bunny William, we are once again running out of adjectives to describe how wonderful we are being treated and how much of a pleasure it was to meet them and be welcomed into their home. Thanks again for your generosity, we had a great time.

We found Ottawa so relaxing that we didnèt exactly rush out the door this morning. It may have been the Tequilla shots, rum, and gin we knocked down the night before or that we really felt relaxed and on holiday. Patrick took us for one last drive around town and showed us the route out before we finally set off at 2pm.

Knowing we were in no rush after setting a simple target of 80kms, it was a very peaceful and calming ride, full of day dreaming and not much hard work. My knee is slightly tender but much better and with another light day in to Montreal tomorrow and two days off, it should be on the mend.

Tonight we are in Alfred, a small little town and very French already despite being only 80kms from Ottawa and still in Ontario. As I write, an elderly couple are riding their horse draw cart past and everyone is speaking French. Montreal and Quebec are next and I am really looking forward to that but I am most excited about getting out to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. The downside of it being so close is that the end is drawing near. Mixed emotions are sure to be faced in the coming weeks.

Our friend Pearse that we stayed with in Kelowna early on in the trip was in town today with his family. It was great to catch up for a couple of pints in town albeit a brief catch up. We had planned to meet up today when we spoke about it in the first week of the trip. Somehow we have managed to cross most of the continent and still keep to the exact day we said we would be here. I may overplan or overthink thinks but this is an example of it being worthwhile!

A late rise. A casual breakfast. A stroll in to town for shopping and food. A few beers. A movie. Just what the doctor ordered!!! My knee is still tender but there are no physios open today. I'll brave it to Montreal and see one there if it hasn't improved. I know, I'm being silly but that's what men do!

Whoever had money on me crying on the 24th August may want an independant enquiry as I definately welled up today, but I wouldn't call it crying. My knee this morning started off well but tender. About 10 miles in to the ride the pain set in again forcing me to ride just with my left leg. It got worse with each mile until I couldn't even rotate it without pressure and I had to stop every few minutes to put my head on my handlebars and breath it out. I was borderline tears and if I was by myself I am sure I would probably have cried but I didn't want to in front of Ben. I have to admit my eyes were somewhat "watery" when the pain became too much. With Ben's encouragement I somehow managed to ride 103 miles entirely on my left leg which needless to say was hugely physically demanding and my left leg was then exhausted by the end.

We've made it to Ottawa though and we're staying with friends of Luke and Bonnie. Once again we're witnessing kindness and generosity from strangers. We're going to take two days off here instead of the one planned and hope my knee starts to heal itself.

Last night we looked at a number of different routes to Ottawa, each with positives and negatives. After much discussion we agreed upon the route and set out this morning to clock up as many miles as possible. Not far in to the ride, a guy stopped his truck in front of us and got us to stop as well. He was a fellow cyclist, had been on a cycling holiday in the French Alps last year, was going on one to Italy next week, and wanted to offer some local advice regarding the route. He pointed us towards a more scenic route that would be a lot safer than the roads we planned on travelling.

Setting off we soon realised he was spot on. The roads were quieter, there was a hard shoulder the whole way, and it was a very pretty ride as we rode along the lakefront and the mouth of the St Lawrence. It would have been a stunning ride if it hadn't have been for the torrential rain. When waiting for the ferry we could only laugh with the people in cars as the rain somehow got heavier and heavier by the minute.

Apart from the rain derailing the day somewhat, we nearly had an event that would derail the trip entirely. When passing a parked car, the driver decided to open her door without looking resulting in Ben having no time to stop and running straight into it. Thankfully he was far enough away that only his hand and arm took the impact but we're a little concerned that his hand may be broken. We'll have to wait and see.

To join in the injury fun, my knee decided to click with about 20 miles to go today. As a result, I am unable to bend it when any pressure is being applied so I had to ride that last 20 miles with my left leg. I've iced it and I too will see how it is in the morning.

Perhaps not my strongest point but an attempt will be made to exercise some international diplomacy as a result of a few potentially justified emails from American friends that suggest I was a little negative when referring to the US :) So let me reiterat that I really enjoyed the American leg we undertook. I love Minnesota, Wisconsin and Illinois (especially Chicago). The people we met there for the most part were lovely, intelligent, and worldly people. Perhaps it was unfortunate that we finished that part of the trip in Michigan. The conditions and people we met made it seem quite a deprived state and as a result we left a little jadded and on a low. I know it doesn't represent the entire country. Let's face it, there are areas like that in every country in the world as I'm sure there are more fantastic places that we simply didn't get to see. I hope that eases the minds of my American friends who thought I was perhaps sledging them too much :)

On to our day then. We left Toronto and we are now in Grafton. With a bit of luck we'll reach Ottawa with two big days back to back.

Unfortunately Luke had to work today but someone has to work for a living and we were grateful he took the day off yesterday to show us around and hang out. Ben somehow managed to get his bike not only fixed today, but they replaced his wheel free of charge with the model up from his!

Bonnie is a qualified Massage Therapist and this afternoon kindly gave Ben and I a Sports Massage on our tired legs. Despite repeated offers to pay for it, Bonnie wouldn't take any money. Thanks very much Bonnie, it's much appreciated and I'm sure will help us in the miles to come.

We all met Luke after work and once again he was far to generous than need be. He took us to dinner and then a Toronto Blue Jays baseball game. We offered to get the beers in at the game to which Luke smiled. We soon knew the reason for him finding humour in it when we folked out $40 for 4 beers. Ouch! Ben and I must be bad luck though as once again we were on the losing team.

Thanks Luke and Bonnie for your generosity, opening your home to us, the beers we shared, and the laughs. It was great seeing you both again and we had an awesome time. I'm looking forward to seeing you again soon.

A cracking headache greeted me this morning and stayed with me all day. Luke kindly took the day off work and with Bonnie drove us out to Niagra falls. I was last here when I was 8 years old and although it was as spectacular as I remember, I don't remember all the hotels, casinos, theme parks, flashing lights etc. The falls are a natural wonder but it is a shame that it is surrounded by some many touristy attractions. But when in Rome... we had a play around in the Casino.

A quiet night in is the order of the day before a busy day tomorrow; a massage, getting Ben's bike fixed, and a BlueJays baseball game. Let's see if Ben can out pitch the pre-teens this time....

Overnight I was sick as a dog (again) and got about 2 hours sleep. It was a struggle to get on the road but we knew it was only a short ride in to Toronto and a few days off with Bonnie and Bisco (Luke). When we arrived we were greeted with a large glass of wine, followed by a larger glass of champagne. To be fair it was their wedding two days earlier and we were just catching up on the celebrations that we missed. Bonnie then asked if we were at Tim Hortins in Paris the day before (a town we went through some 70 miles out of town). As it turns out, Bonnie's dad had seen us stopped for a break on the side of the highway and was going to come and say hi but didn't (we've never met him). If he had have done, he would have informed us that he lived in Paris and Bonnie and Bisco were coming up for the night and staying at his place. It would have been very strange if he had have stopped for a chat and we would have seen B&B a day early.

After a shower we headed out for dinner and a few beers with Luke's rugby lads that he had lined up. Needless to say, Ben and I are not built like rugby players and we were soon under the weather. It would seem that other people began noticing this and it wasn't long before Ben and I were flanked by some colourful characters of the male variety. They took a liking to Ben who was unaware he was being chatted up, much to the amusement of the rugby lads.

A Snickers is part of every complete breakfast
Being able to say "I was hear almost 20 years ago" is a sign you are getting old, as is being in bed before 8:30pm
Dogs are fast, very fast!!!
"Quiet" areas of campgrounds are negated when a dance is taking place with intolerable country music being played.
People who stick their fingers up at you from the safety of their cars are tough!

Waking to a blustery morning I thought "we could see some tears from Ben this morning if it's a head wind and it's a tough push to get across to Canada". He really wants out. Thankfully it was a tail wind and the first 40 miles were covered very quickly because our pathetic attempt to be on the road early saw us leave at 10:20am.

I think it is safe to say that the US is a difficult place for people to get in to these days so I was surprised that the signs to aid people in leaving were non-existent (except for the freeway that crosses the bridge that bikes can't take). As it turns out, Navigator Extrodinar (yours truely) had taken us to a border crossing that is illigal for bikes to cross, error. Once again I was given a travel time by car to the ferry crossing because they didn't know how "far" it was by bike. Perhaps I am asking the wrong question. Unfortunately the ferry crossing was not an option but the friendly border crossing staff driving us over the bridge in the back of a truck was. In total we wasted about 2.5 hours so decided on a shortened target destination for the day.

When crossing the border their was a sign of relief from Ben, one because we were no longer in The States and two because the Canadian Tourist Information Offices were back on the scene providing me with free maps, campground guides, and no excuses. At 6pm we recieved the turnoff to the town in which we had chosen to stay. The sign straight on to London read a further 34kms. Ben mentioned that it would be great to stay in London for the sake of the title on his diary entry. I was obliging and also thought a race against the dipping sun might be a nice challenge.

We passed through Middlesex, Highbury, London, and we're staying on the Thames River tonight, where we've just enjoyed a gourmet canned food products buffet that we obtained from the gas station... London is almost as I remember it; well it is cold and windy, minus the grey and rain. Tomorrow we head through Oxford, Paris, Waterloo, and on to Cambridge. It's like home away from home.

I should have known today was not going to get any better when I began singing "We gotta get out of this place, if it's the last thing we ever do". Perhaps it was foresight given that we were due to go through the delapated Flint today, of previous General Motors and Ford fame. Since the closure of both factories, the city has been in decline.

We were making great time and hammering out the miles with Flint nearing quickly. We stopped for a quick break and got chatting to a guy who informed us that Flint had the fourth highest murder rate in The States and we were "too white to come out alive". He advised an alternative route which we agreed was a sensible idea. Unfortunately teh revised route resulted in us taking roads ressembling donkey trails that weren't on the map. Inevitably we got lost but who was on hand to help? A completely confused public that didn't know their left from their right nor any of the towns that neighbour their own. Needless to say, a little frustration set in. Ben must have blacked out because he doesn't remember his swearing fit. He was a little downcast as I had given him hope of reaching Canada today but our misdirection put it out of reach. Apart from Chicago he hasn't really enjoyed the US and has been longing for Canada. At times it has been a mutual feeling.

Once again my day was completed by another geographically challenged individual. "Chicago is a big city yeah? It must be bigger than Australia is it?" Shut up!

Throughout this trip we have enjoyed meeting the locals and obtaining their advice from time to time. Today was no different but when entering Battle Creek through a lovely forest, past miltary bases, and National Cemetries, along with the head quarters of Kellogs, we didn't expect it to be a slum.

The first person we met pulled up in a car when were were looking at the map, rolled down her window and yelled "If you need to ask for directions, you're a *@#$!" Charming!

When we stopped for our first meal, Ben went in to the shop during which time I was confronted by two very large African American men. I was at first intimidated but the conversation began pleasantly. However, it wasn't long before I was asked, sorry told, to give them money. I declined twice before they walked off, obviously too intimidated by my physically overpowering presence to puruse it any further.

Ben returned breifly before going across the road to another shop. Enter our next local. I had a quick chat with this lovely lady but was happy to palm her off on to Ben upon his return as old, smelly, grey-haired, drunk women with beer guts to make Father Christmas look thin, are not my thing. Luckly Ben got to run the disease ridden gautlette of shaking her hand only to look up and see me riding off and waving bye to Ben's new girlfriend. As we hadn't eaten yet, I asked Ben how far he wanted to go before stopping. He said, "I don't care, just get me out of this town, I don't like it". I'm sure he said it with a wimper which could be attributed to the fact that his new girlfriend's parting words of advice were "If I were you, I'd get the *@#$ out of this town"

To end the day, I pulled in to the driveway and half a second later a mother, calm looking woman pulled in behind me and gave me a horrifying look that would make a child cry. All day I have had to remind myself that the US is a big country and they are not represented entirely by the oxygen thiefs I met today. Onward and upward, tomorrow is a new day!

The rain this morning meant a sleep in but I don't think Ben was planning on 1030am but he simply couldn't wake me. He knows me well enough not to stand in the way of my sleep or food. We popped town to the lake before setting off ehich was mind bogling to think that it was a lake and not the ocean. You would definately forgive early explorers from thinking they had reached the end of the continent.

Our friends since North Dakota and beyond have gone a long way to impressing us with their intelligence and worldliness but today two indivduals went about single-handedly undoing the hard work. I was in a mood so a few eyes were rolled during the following conversation and I was perhaps a little abrupt.

Lady: "Are you from New York? You have an accent from there"
AB: "I'm from Australia"
Lady: "What are you doing here?"
AB: "Cycling coast to coast"
Lady: "Where did you start?"
AB: "Vancouver"
Lady: "Oh, I've heard of that. But hang on a second, isn't Australia way down south? You didn't ride that far did you?"
AB: "That would be quite difficult given that there is a small ocean in between. I flew by airplane"
In to the shop she went. Upon her return she made a comment about that fact that we are "all Americans".
AB: "Have you been listening to our conversation?"

Enter ambassador number 2 at the end of the day when looking for a place to stay.
AB: "How far is it?"
Lady: "By bike? I don't know. I can tell you by car"
AB: "I'm sorry, does mode of transport change the distance?!?!"

Frustration has set in today. The roads are in a horrible state, we're travelling through areas where I wouldn't be surprised to look down and see my tires had been stolen whilst riding, campgrounds are non-existent, and people are disgruntled or after my wallet.

We set off from Paul and Marrisa's this morning and it was a beaultiful day but I never like saying bye to people that I would love to have in my life more often, it's never easy.

The first 20 miles of the ride was beautiful. We followed the late the whole way on a bike track and again had great views of the city. It was along this bike track that I had my first fright of the day. This time I didn't fall off my bike but I went rather close when my trailer tire decided to disengage and roll off into the grass as I tried desperately to control my bike and the trailer that was now simply a metal tray dragging along the ground. Thankfully I managed to stop safely and could only laugh.

The second fright of the day was less of a fright and more of a general concern for our well being as our route took us through some less than desirable neighbourhoods of Chicago and surrounding areas. We were pre-warned by Paul not to stop and just keep riding, so that we did.

The third fright, I thought I was about to be knocked clean off my bike and far from consciousness. When entering New Buffalo there were a lot of road works. A truck passing in the opposite direction hit a temporary divide in the road which flew in my direction and would surely have done me in. However, at the split second before I thought it was about to take my head clean off, a car overtook me and intercepted it. It made a nice mess of the car's front end and got trapped underneath but it was better than making a mess of my face. So once again, after stopping shaking, I had to laugh.

Tonight we are being hosted by a lovely guy, Shade, who we met randomly at the grocery store. He said if the campground was full then we were more than welcome to stay in his guest house, use the kitchen, and share a few beers. His sales skills were too good and I thought I'd save some time "To be honest, based upon what you've just said, I'm just going to pretend the campground is full." And to Shade's place we went. He has been very hostpitable and provided some very enjoyable dinner conversation. We'll have to stop meeting intelligent and worldly Americans, it will stop us being able to make fun of the stereotypes.

As predicted, we weren't able to pass up another day of rest and spending time with Paul and Marrisa (when we woke up at noon), so we decided to stay another day and leave the following morning. We were extremely happy to do so and even more so that Marrisa got the opportunity to make us a huge, delicious Italian meal, something she is not allowed to do very often given Paul's distaste for pasta. I'm sure she got pleasure out of being able to cook some italian food but it was Ben and I that reaped the benefits.

The massage we got this morning was a combination of relaxation and utter pain. Deep tissue massages are the way forward but having it performed on legs that have been riding solidly for over a month hurt to the point that we nearly had a first tears of the trip. Afterwards though, the pain subsided and relaxation set in, more than worth it.

Paul and Marissa continued their generosity and took us to see the Chicago White Sox play the Seattle Mariners. Having never been to a baseball game, it was great fun but we didn't watch the whole of the game as we were too busy walking around, stuffing our facces with hotdogs, and testing our pitching arms (Paul made me look like a weakling but I was happy because the 12 year old before us made Ben look like one :) We sat back down again at the bottom of the 9th to see a Grand Slam but the Sox came up short and we had to settle for a 6-7 loss. Upon our return home, more beverages were consumed and out we went again into the night to ruin any chance of leaving in the morning.

Somehow we managed to stay up until 2am again last night so we weren't off to a flyer again this morning. We popped over to see Paul's sisters Michelle and Bernie as well as his mother. I haven't seen them for 2 years or so either so it was great to see them again despite it being a fleeting visit. Hopefully they'll be able to make it in to town tomorrow night to meet up for a drink. In the afternoon Paul took us on a ride through Chicago along the water. It was about a 20k round trip at a casual pace and it gave us some great views of the city on a beaultiful clear warm day. It's always hard to judge a city on a few days but from what we saw today I think I would quite enjoy living here. I love big cities that incorporate bike tracks, running tracks etc into the city. The few beers by the lake (which is like being by the ocean) may have helped with making me feel good about the place. We hit a few bars tonight and played darts for a few hours. I made the mistake of beating Paul in the first 2 games as it only made him mad and we couldn't leave until he won the next 4 :) Once again, we got home in the early hours but tomorrow will be relaxing as we have a massage at 10am and we're then off to see the White Sox play in the evening. There are whispers that we'll be out on the town again after the game so I think the first day back on the bike could be a tough one.

Today was again one of those days off that dissappeared without us knowing where it went or what we did. I place a large amount of blame on the alcohol consumption the night before. Although it's frustrating when the days go by like this, the important thing is that the legs are being rested. Apart from doing nothing, we did manage to get in to join Paul for lunch and home late at night to have another great home cooked meal with Paul and Marrisa. Everything we did today was done at a snails pace.

Bikes have been put in for a service and I'm getting new tires as I've done over 3,000 miles on these ones. We've also picked up new socks, water bottles, a saddle etc etc. Everything we own has been washed as well now not because we really thought it needed washing but because Colleen couldn't stand the smell :) We've had a relaxing day and had a great catch up but unfortunately Colleen had to work tonight so we headed into Paul's place in Downtown Chicago (Cheryl kindly drove us in) for what was surely going to be a liver destroying experience. Needless to say, he didn't disappoint and the 2.5 bottles of vodka that were consumed between the 3 of us went to work on our livers.

The thunderstorm overnight was huge and many areas have been flooded. We didn't get adequate sleep last night as the lightening and thunder was right on top of us and the heat remained high. So we woke up even more sweaty and smelly and had to jump on the bikes and get on down towards Chicago. The day was again a hot one but the ride was quite easy and we got to St Charles for about 4pm.

Tonight we're being hosted by Colleen, her boyfriend Keith, and Colleen's parents Cheryl and Charles. It's great to see them again as it's been 2 years and we've had a lot of catching up to do. Once again we're being treated like kings and looked after very well. I think Charlie would give us the shirt off his back if he thought it would help us out, a lovely guy. We're also now very much relaxed knowing that we have a few days rest and fun with friends after the long stretch we've just done.

We took a detour today after we discovered where the Trek factory was located. Unfortunately there were no tours on but the lady in reception kindly let us wonder through the atrim and view the history of Trek and all of Lance Armstrongs winning bikes and yellow jearseys. It was a quick trip but worth it none the less.

As for the dirty ending...Tonight is our first night in a campsite that doesn't have showers. It is very humid so we've been sweating all day and now we have the pleasure of sleeping in it. It's less than fun but the beautiful dinner Ben cooked (salmon with spicy salsa on a bed of rice, brocolli, spinanch, and asparagus) and teh 3 beers are making it tolerable. It's also now pouring rain which will hopefully cool down our journey into Chicago (well, St Charles). I'm really looking forward to the time off, my legs are beginning to make a few noises.

70 miles out of the 100 we did today were in the rain. Apart from that, not much else to report

Our first wet day from start to finish. We rode casually and it was fun but it got very cold. We've not ridden far today but our of the rain is the best place to be. Unfortunately again there are no campsites and all the motels are full. Thankfully I'm not one to take no for an answer and managed to convince one of the motels to let us sleep in their boardroom for the night. We're playing catchup tomorrow so will hit the road early!

True to his word, Jeff dished up a great breakfast and set about giving the bikes a quick service. I'm still a novice when it comes to playing with the bikes so I looked on and learnt a little more. He then rode the first 23 miles with us taking us on a beaultiful route around the many lakes and rivers of the region. It's great riding with local riders that can take you off the main roads and onto the more scenic routes.

Jeff is an absolute gentleman and he and his family were absolutely fantastic in the way they opened their home to us and welcomed us in. It's strange that you can meet a stranger and within hours feel like friends. It's wonderful meeting people like Jeff and it restores your faith that there are people like him in the world. We have been blessed with the great people we have met.

The next 40 miles was a cruise. Easy riding and great weather. The end of the day was a different story. The planned 20 miles was 35. The campgrounds were non-existent, even the policeman who did a callout on his radio for us couldn't find one within 15 miles. The only shinning light was that Ben made a man's day by being the first Englishman he'd ever met. Unfortunately he had met Australian's before and was less than impressed by the way we "talked funny" so I was brushed aside.

So without anywhere to stay Ben and I have "got a room" in a seedy, smelly motel room. Unfortunately for me we're on a rotation policy and it's my turn to enjoy the floor. I'd rather be in my tent if it wasn't for the 4 million TV channels at our disposal. My last words to Ben before sleep were that I didn't think his choice of "I'm gunna take you to gay bar" as the last track of the day was an appropriate one given where we were.

It was a beautiful morning, bright blue skies, fresh breeze, and it was at our back. The ride into Duluth was nice and easy and was very pleasant. We had planned to take a decent break by the water but unfortunately the route in, that included at great downhill and view of the sea-like Lake Superior, took us to an industrial part of town. We then hit our first spagetti junction and over the huge bridge to Superior with "limited" hard shoulder. It wasn't till later in the day that we found out it would have been a $200 fine for crossing that bridge. Truth is I had a feeling we were breaking the law but thought it best to keep quiet and not say anything to Ben otherwise he may suggest we find another route and that would waste time. Not too dissimilar to when I told Helen she was swimming with sharks after she got out of the water. Sometimes it's best to press on and deal with it later...... Ben then found somewhere for lunch. I said if he really wants to go there then jump on in, but be aware that it is an animal feed supplier, not a resturant.

About 80 miles into the ride we stopped at a gas station for a drink. A gentleman approached us and introduced himself as Jeff. We had a short conversation about the trip before he asked where we were heading for the night. As it turned out we were headed to his town and he offered for us to come and stay with his cycling keen family. We simply couldn't pass up the opportunity but we did pass up the offer of putting the trailer in the car for the last 40 miles, that's simply cheating! (Ben didn't agree)

Jeff and his family were fantastic. They fed us, watered us, washed our clothes, and provided great dinner conversation. Jeff offered to give our bikes a once over in the morning and ride the first part of the day with us. His help is most welcomed. Very tired this evening which I'm sure came across in converstation over dinner. A good night sleep is in order.

Today's riding was beautiful and cleansing. Cass Lake was a great place to stop, in fact this whole region of Minnesota is lovely. Ben started the morning with a swim in the lake and I got part of the way before deciding he was mad and it was too cold.

When we set off it wasn't long before the heavens opened, and boy did they open. We had...........hold it......a dog is currently urinating on my tent! Ok, he's gone now, where was I. Ok, se we had no time to get our wet weather gear on and we got soaked head to toe. We thought "to hell with it" and rode all day drenched with no wet weather gear on. Riding behind someone meant eating the mud and water off their back tire. My feet now resemble prunes. Apart from that the ride through the forest was great fun and all we could do was laugh at how wet we were and sing stupid songs. We had a cool breeze at our backs and ended the day with a mega calorie-loaded dinner. All in all, an enjoyable day.

Apart from the local Crack Head telling us his life story at 530am this morning (drug problems, restraining order on his wife, illegitamate children, ex-cons he has as mates and who are now leaders of the school community group etc), today was a much more enjoyable affair. Minnesota until now had been flat farmland like North Dakota but it has now become rolling hills, trees, lakes, and forests which make the riding much more enjoyable and it passes the time. The only hickup for today was being called a "Nigger" by people yelling at us from the street, nearly falling asleep whilst riding from taking hayfeaver tablets, and being destroyed off 3 beers tonight!

The other major issue today is that is is mum's birthday today (with time difference) and we do not have an internet connection to get her flowers, nor do our phones work to call her. A little grovelling is in order in the next week.

Everyone said this would be tough but after we conquered the rockies so easily I thought it would be easier than previously thought. Neither of us expected to be met day after day with such demanding conditions; extremely hot days and yet again more head winds. It is becoming increasingly difficult, not helped by waking up with a head cold this morning.

However a tough day in the saddle is easily solved by a late ride through the cool night in search of chocolate milk!

Crossing the border this morning involved a much more thorough search and questioning than I had expected. All our bags were searched (repacking was fun) and we had to explain everything that we were doing including showing them the website and information about the charity, our return flights etc etc. We both got in trouble for leaning across the desk to point at things on the screen; apparently that is illegal at a border crossing. Thankfully Ben agreed a border crossing was not the best location for his best Mexican impersonation.

The first town we entered did nothing for the reputation of Americans regarding their knowledge of the outside world.
Old Guy: "Where you from?"
Ben: "England"
Old Guy: "Where?"
Ben: "England"
Old Guy: (shakes his head and shrugs his shoulders)
Ben: "The United Kingdom"
Old Guy: (shakes his head and shrugs his shoulders)
Ben: "Europe"
Old Guy: "Oh yeah, I know where that is. Did you get here by boat?"
Ben: "No, they've since invented the airplane"

I didn't have the time nor the inclination to begin telling him where Australia or Dubai was so I kept my mouth shut. I was going to help him figure out where Ben was from by asking what language he spoke but I feared he would answer "American" and that would be helping no one!

When we got to St Thomas all was forgotten. The lovely woman that ran the local gas station passed us on the way in to town and rushed ahead to make sure the gas station stayed open until we got there. She then kindly bought us a drink. I love moments like this, it reminds you that there ARE good people out there.

What can we say about Hank and Sally. It's possibly the most at home I have ever felt whilst being away from home. They were fantastic hosts and we had a great time with them. It's the first time we've had a day off that we weren't getting edgey to get back in the saddle, we could have easily stayed longer! The food was wonderful and always flowing, we had great fun exchanging stories and meeting their friends who were all equally as lovely.

Hank was also a star with the bikes. I was in on the computer and when I came outside he has completely washed and serviced the bikes from head to toe and he did a spectacular job! Hank also has inspired me to take up triathlons after this trip. His array of medals for triathlons, marathons, ironmen, cross country skiing etc was simply humbling.

We cannot thank Hank and Sally enough, they are the salt of the earth and make it a better place. I'm sure both Ben and I will keep in contact with them both after the trip, we've met some good friends along the journey and we don't want to let go of these ones.

A casual ride, a long lunch, a relaxing day. We had two days to go a short distance to Morden where we were going to have a day off. As we rode though, we saw that the wind was blowing south and if we could make it to our turning point we thought why not take advantage of a rare tail wind. So yet again we got ahead a further day and rode the tail wind all the way to Morden. We covered 170km in great time and we're now going to take two rest days. We're staying with Hank and Sally, yet another 4 million degress of separation which makes their generosity, friendliness, and hospitality even more extraordinary. We have a feeling we will be well fed and looked after here and we're in for a great time.

As always, we will write our diary entries for our rest days after we leave. We can't afford any of our hosts to become complacent when we tell them how wonderful they are :)

Riding throughout today was strainingand at times dangerous. Surprise, surprise, we had yet another head wind which later in the day swung around and hit us from the side. These winds are definately beginning to get to me now. It's heartbreaking putting in all you've got and not feeling like you're moving anywhere.

The combination of the wind and lack of hard shoulder made for dangerous riding. We had to lean into the wind and battle to keep the bike upright but when the wind died down for a split second we'd end up flying off into the middle of the lane. Conversely, when a truck went by we'd get blown on to the gravel next to the road. One one such occassion, I hit the gravel at quite a speed and my front tire slipped from under me and my bike took a nose dive. Instinctively I clipped out my left foot as it fell but as I was still moving I broke into a stride, my right foot clipped out, and before I knew it I was running. I finally came to a standstill and looked back to see my bike 15 metres behind me. I'm not sure how I did it but it was definately a better alternative to landing flat on my face. Ben missed the fall so found it odd to look up and see me running away from my bike.

The remainder of the day saw us running the gautlet from the promised huge storm that never came. We considered pulling up short in a town called Douglas when the storm was looming. We did continue on but in Douglas we met a lovely lady, Allian, who gave us each a good luck charm to help us on our journey. When then considered pulling up short at a roadside motel but instead stuffed our faces with all manner of food and continued on to Sidney.

At the moment I'm finding it difficult making compromises about stopping short of the daily target. I feel that once we set a goal in the morning then we have failed if we don't get there. Thankfully our decisions to push on have not hurt us thus far but I probably need to adjust my "all or nothing" attitude as it's a long way to go and anything can happen.

Today was tedious. Another scortching hot day, another huge head wind, another boring day. Thank goodness Ben and I can have a laugh about most things because it is the only thing that gotus through today. Thank goodness we have left Sask, the most boring place on earth.

Before we made it to Manitoba though, I was treated to an enlightening experience courtesy of Ben. Most people know I'm a moody sod and lose my temper over the smallest of things, but today it was my turn to witness someone else doing it. Of all people, Ben, lost his temper when he couldn't get his bag backin his trailer so he let fly with a running punt that would have sent his trailer flying if it wasn't attached to his bike. He then proceeded to jump on his bike and fly off into the distance. It was the first time I have seen Ben lose his temper and although shocked I took some good from it. Seeing how silly someone looks when acting that way made me realise how silly I must look when doing it. Perhaps I will attempt to curb that little trait of mine. Thanks for the example Ben.

Our greatest cuisine discovery so far this trip has been that of Root Beer and Chocolate Shakes. We can't get enough of them and A&W do the best 1 litre shakes. Quite sick really, but we love it!

Another scorching day, another head wind, another lack of scenery. The only thing different was that we've met some fellow cyclists today. A couple of girls going from Vancouver to Quebec but sleeping in backyards as apposed to campgrounds, and another girl from near Ottawa cycling with a guy from Holland. We've had a good chat and laugh and it will be interesting to see if we run into each other again as we are all heading the same way tomorrow.

Another thing we've enjoyed so far, and starting looking forward to, are the motos that each town have adopted. Usually they attempt to be inspiring using words such as "integrity" and "courage" but my favourite so far has been "Medicine Hat - The Gas City". That however was beaten today by "Wolseley - The town around a lake" Simply inspiring!!!

Today's ride was completed with a humbling moment that gave us a little wakeup call. A messy crash on the highway occurred a couple of hundred metres